2009 Holiday Newsletter

Looking south from Cloudy Bay Tasmania — Click image for the full size photo
Cloudy Bay, looking towards West Cloudy Head — Click image for the full size photo

Dorothy and Steve are back in summery New Zealand — five and one-half years and two Pacific crossings since we last sailed out of the Bay of Islands on June 7, 2004 — bound for Tahiti, Hawaii and Alaska. We are kicking up our heels to be sharing anchorages again with dear Bay of Islands friends like Jane and Shelly on MAGIC DRAGON and David and Susan on IMAGINE. So many more friends to catch up with — we’ve just anchored in Pomare Bay in front of our former home on Te Wahapu, hoping to visit with Jeremy and Diana Pope and Matt and Carol Harvey before we shift over to Opua to collect the Weindorf family for our 2009 Christmas adventure. So, what have we been up to this year?

We celebrated the 2008 holiday season with our daughter, Kim, son-in-law, Alan, and wonderful grandchildren, David (age 12) and Sarah (age 9). In January we flew to Hobart, Tasmania for their Summer Festival, many visits with friends, the Australia Wooden Boat Festival in Hobart, the Australian TROPFEST film festival, the Folk Music Festival, Ten Days on the Island, and more.

March found us back in California for more fun with Kim and her family, including a long weekend in Yosemite National Park and lots of bicycling. ADAGIO needed a new bottom job, and the best place to haul her out for new bottom paint was a boat yard located in the Napa Valley. We enjoyed views of the surrounding vineyards from ADAGIO as she was perched high above the marine railway. We enjoyed some, but too few sails around San Francisco Bay — certainly one of the finest sailing venues on planet Earth.

By the end of June ADAGIO was provisioned and ready to sail for Hawaii. Fellow OCC sailor Shaun Peck (Victoria, BC) joined us on the Hawaii passage, so ADAGIO sailed once again under the Golden Gate Bridge on June 30, with our daughter and grandchildren watching us on the Exploratorium webcam.

On July 12, we arrived in Oahu, Hawaii, after a comfortable and fun passage. Shaun immediately joined a committee of volunteers in Honolulu to help out with the finish of the 2009 Transpac Race.

On July 16, ADAGIO’s population increased again when we were joined by Leo Foley, commodore of the Cruising Yacht Club of Tasmania (Hobart, Tasmania), and fellow OCC sailors Penelope and George Curtis (Oxfordshire, UK). On July 23rd we found the passage weather we wanted to depart for New Caledonia. August 15th, after 23 days at sea, we arrived in New Caledonia. We seem to have partied all the way, with such good company aboard, making for short watches, assistance sailing the boat and help in the galley. We enjoyed showing our crew our favorite places in New Caledonia, even visiting our friends Cleo and Albert in the isle of Pines.

We enjoyed cruising New Caledonia through August, then in September we circumnavigated New Caledonia’s “big island”, Grande-Terre. We believe that the best way to see this country is by boat. The coastal areas are very beautiful, and the coastal towns are quite varied, as is the scenery.

On October 10, our Australian friends, Ian and Andrew, arrived to join us for the New Zealand passage. We had time to take them sailing, to practice “pulling the strings.” They were an enormous help with the pre-passage preparations, including repairs of a few bits we broke between San Francisco and Newcal. While we waited patiently for NZ passage weather we spent as much time as we could enjoying the beautiful Isle of Pines, including visits with our local friends, and with new cruising friends aboard other boats lucky enough to make it to Ile des Pins.

Halloween, October 31, we sailed out of New Caledonia, and arrived in New Zealand on November 6. Head seas were bumpy for the first couple of days, but comfortable after that. We had a week to show Ian and Andrew around the Bay of Islands, before they returned to Australia. Bay of Islands marine businesses entertained cruisers as they arrived from numerous islands in the South Pacific. We met cruisers from many different countries, and spent social hours getting to know them.

As you can tell, we are just a “box of fluffy ducks” being back in enZed, where ADAGIO was launched 9 years ago. We have begun exploring the islands of Urpukapuka, Moturua, Roberton, and the Te Pahi Islands, finding good beaches, coves, caves, hiking trails and fishing spots to show to our grandchildren when they arrive on December 23 for a 10-day visit.

Stay well and let us know how you are and where you are — and let us know if you have changed your email address!

Best wishes, Big hugs, and Best of Luck in the New Year

Dorothy and Steve

S/V ADAGIO, Bay of Islands, New Zealand

Steve and Dorothy at the Pa site lookout atop Roberton Island, Bay of Islands

BOI: ADAGIO installs 3G wireless broadband for NZ and Australia

UPDATE 11 August, 2010: Australia wireless broadband. It was challenging to uncover the Telstra post-paid, no-contract 3G service. The secret words are “Browsing Pack”:

“There is a range of Browsing Pack options that start from 30MB ($5) of included data per month – up to 9GB ($99) per month of included data. You can change your Browsing Pack as your needs change. Unused included data expires each month.”

We are on the 9GB/month plan. Like Telecom NZ, credit approval for post-paid was simple and quick. Before you go in, call the Telstra shop to inquire which ID they will accept to make up your required 100 points.

6 December, 2009: We are anchored near the beach south of Roberton Island in New Zealand’s Bay of Islands. I should say “happily anchored” both because this is a truly lovely spot, and because we now have aboard ADAGIO broadband wireless internet access. We are confident that the solution we have adopted will continue to work well throughout most of coastal New Zealand and Australia. It will also work in U.S. waters should we decide to sail back there.

This all started when we read a report in The Albatross, the monthly newsletter of our home Hobart club, the Cruising Yacht Club of Tasmania (CYCT). This report “Cruising the Australian coast with Broadband Internet” described the successful experience sailing from Brisbane to Hobart on Alamak. Former Telstra engineer Andrew Boon brought along for the trip an Ericsson W25 Fixed Wireless Terminal:

Essentially it is a mobile phone on steroids. It runs under 3G (or in the case of Telstra, Next G) mobile networks and contains, like any normal mobile phone, a SIM card. The difference between it and a normal phone is it has ports that allow it to be connected to a normal telephone handset and/or a computer and/or a fax machine – all at the same time.

We found that download speeds were equivalent to land based broadband speeds (Andrew can give you the numbers if you are interested) and other than dropping out a couple of times, it proved to be very reliable. For crossing Bass Strait, we rigged the external aerial, otherwise we got by on the stub aerial connected to the unit. We had good coverage the whole trip with the exception of a short break in Bass Strait.

That report really got our attention – especially because we have observed a steady stream of “success” field reports from CYCT sailors – testing their new Telstra Next G phones whilst cruising a variety of Tasmanian waters. The alert reader will recall that most Tasmanian cruising, away from Hobart, is anything but Urban.

Then we were doubly blessed when Andrew agreed to join Adagio for the New Caledonia to New Zealand passage. Andrew patiently answered a long series of questions about the technical feasibility, and how best to configure to get good results. So with Andrew’s encouragement we set about to see if there was a commercial offering that would meet all of our non-negotiable requirements:

* No contract: it is impossible for us to agree to a 24-month contract.

* Practical rural coverage, obviously.

* Enough monthly data allowance (at least 8GB).

* And enough portability so we can use the same equipment investment for at least NZ and Australia.

Before explaining what we did I should mention that we investigated whether an iPhone could meet our objectives. We decided not – principally because the iPhone is not designed for an external antenna, nor is it designed to robustly support tethering another computer to the iPhone’s 3G connection. There are workarounds, but we did not want to get into an “iPhone development program”. We’re here to go sailing!

But which network – Telecom NZ or Vodafone? From Andrew we learned that hardware-wise, the big divide is whether you choose 850 vs 900 MHz, which means the following network choices relevant to our portability requirement:

850/2100 MHz = Telstra NextG / Three (AUS), Telecom (NZ), various in USA.

900/2100 MHz = Optus YesG / Vodafone (AUS), Vodafone (NZ), various in EUROPE.

The telecom vendors do not make it easy to discover how their network coverage performance compares across locations. A key insight came, again, from Andrew, that Telstra/AUS and Telecom/NZ had both invested in widespread deployment of the longer range 850MHz cell towers, using 2100 MHz towers to infill in coverage soft spots. Contrariwise, Vodafone et al had focused upon 2100 MHz towers to concentrate their coverage where most of the people live. Since we prefer to mostly cruise where people don’t live, it became quickly clear that 850 MHz best met our “Practical rural coverage” requirement.

Now the question became commercial terms with Telecom NZ. To cut to the chase, we went to the Telecom retailer “Orb Communications” in Kerikeri, where Ms. Amanda Walker quickly set up just what we required – all of these items are what Telecom calls “Open Term”, which means we pay monthly bills, but can cancel at any time:

• a “Plan Only” sale, meaning we supply our own equipment

• a no-charge SIM card for the Telecom XT network (i.e., 3G)

• Data plan: “Mobile Broadband 8GB”, $79.95/month

• “One Rate 100” voice service, meaning 100 minutes airtime for a monthly minimum of $50.

Translation: we pay nothing up front, have no contract, but agree to pay $50 + $80/month for the voice + data service until cancelled or amended. For those who need a fair bit of data like Adagio does, we were fortunate to have the benefit of the Xmas promotion — so we get 8GB per month for same price as 4GB. Telecom’s normal price is $29.95 for the extra 4GB, then $0.10/MB over the 8GB allowance.

Because this is a postpay plan Telecom requires a credit check. That seemed very straightforward as we only had to supply two current photo-ID, our NZ mailing address (of former neighbors on Te Wahapu), and when asked “How many credit cards do you have?” I replied “two, would you like to see them?”. Answer “no thanks”.

So, confident we had a telecom deal we could accept, we ordered the equipment:

A$ 470.00 ex-GST Ericsson W35: Fixed Wireless Terminal from Powertec Australia

NZ$ 130 ex-GST RFI CD2195: 890mm tall four-band external antenna (gain of 6.5dBi for 824-960 MHz, 3dBi for 1710-2170 MHz) from RF Industries New Zealand, Paul McKnight +649 5372683.

NZ$ 20 An inexpensive Slimline landline phone from Dick Smith

Configuring the W35 to work with the Telecom network was straightforward, taking about 10 minutes. An ethernet cable will be required until you have configured the WLAN wireless access point. The parameters required are similar to configuring an ADSL router. Fortunately we had long range wifi access, as I had to search up the Telecom Access Point Name (APN, which is internet.telecom.co.nz).

We have run just a few objective speed tests using SpeakEasy.net/Speedtest. Anchored in the Waikere River – with external antenna and without

– With antenna signal bars = 100% test #1

   – Download Speed: 3939 kbps (492.4 KB/sec transfer rate)

   Upload Speed: 457 kbps (57.1 KB/sec transfer rate)

– Disconnect antenna signal bars = 50%

   – Download Speed: 1682 kbps (210.3 KB/sec transfer rate)

   Upload Speed: 509 kbps (63.6 KB/sec transfer rate)

– With antenna signal bars = 100% test #2

   – Download Speed: 2991 kbps (373.9 KB/sec transfer rate)

   Upload Speed: 681 kbps (85.1 KB/sec transfer rate)

Some more details: the Ericsson W35 includes an internal 802.11 wireless access point. So the installation can be done where it is most convenient to connect to an external antenna. E.g., for us and for data-only we could mount the W35 near our cockpit external microwave jack. If you don’t need a landline phone, then you just need DC power and the antenna.

The landline phone is an experiment. One motivation was to get cheaper airtime than Vodafone prepaid at NZ$ 0.88/minute. The Telecom One Rate 100 plan was $ 0.50/minute. But now we have 2degreesmobile.co.nz GSM prepaids at a current promo rate of $ 0.22/minute. The other motivation was remote location coverage. We expect to get voice coverage with the W35/external antenna where we would have no useable GSM signal on Vodafone (and 2degrees uses the Vodafone network).

The external antenna connection can be a challenge on some boats. Our case is simplified in that we can repurpose our already-installed LMR400 low-loss microwave cable which we have used since Hobart 2001 to connect medium-range and long-range wireless antennas to our wireless bridge. When we have access to a 3G wireless broadband network we don’t need the 802.11 wi-fi setup, so we can switch the use of the routing of microwave cable from our nav station to a protected cockpit bulkhead connector.

I am awaiting shipments from AUS and NZ of some more antenna cabling parts I need to finish the installation. By finish I mean “all that we need for further testing”. Ultimately we will install the external 3G antenna on our radar arch, but that involves a new run of LMR400 and sacrificing one or more antennas that already have space allocated on the arch. Meanwhile the W35 will go under the nav station with our other access points and routers. This is less convenient than having the W35 on the desktop where we can easily see the indicators and operate the low-power/sleep button. But the less-convenient location is is close enough to the existing LMR400 cable to connect with a 500 mm MCX to N-Male pigtail/patch cable. We are striving to minimize connections as each connector can add 0.1 to 0.5 db to the signal acquisition losses. I also have to wire up the DC supply power properly, utilizing our regulated 12VDC supply (or maybe I can use the ship’s 24VDC as the input spec is 10 – 28VDC).

Our bottom line is that we can now enjoy cruising the more remote areas as we do not feel the need to scurry back near “civilization” hunting for a wireless signal.

BOI: Urupukapuka Island 10 Nov

We were blessed with good weather in the days right after ADAGIO made landfall in New Zealand. We wanted to show Andrew and Ian around the Bay of Islands a bit, so one of our first adventures was to anchor in Urupukapuka Bay then spend the day walking all over Urupukapuka Island. We still didn’t make every one of the Pa sites. We’ll visit those when the Weindorfs visit around Christmas time.

By New Years we expect the pohutukawa trees to be blazing red all around the island.

BOI: Waipiro Bay

ADAGIO is very happy to be back in NZ’s Bay of Islands. As soon as we were cleared of formalities, bought some groceries, and booked some travel arrangements for Andrew and Ian, we were off to explore. Our first stop was Waipiro Bay – just 1.5km south of Urupukapuka Island – where we plan to hike tomorrow.

We were hoping to find MAGIC DRAGON anchored in Waipiro – and so we did! What a treat, as it has been some five years since we last had Jane and Michel DeRidder aboard. We have a lot of yarns to exchange and catching up to do. More to come in future posts…

One of the bits we learned from Michel was that he had built a house atop the western point of Waipiro some years ago. Subsequently that house was purchased by a new family who decided to build a much more costly/luxurious home in its place. That is just an example of what we are seeing everywhere in the Bay of Islands. “Big money” seems to arrived since we last visited in 2004. We have seen at least a dozen multi-million dollar new estates constructed in the most special BOI positions. I think we will see this repeated as we revisit our favorite anchorages.

New Caledonia to New Zealand: a full moon passage

Click the thumbnail for photo gallery

For the passage from New Caledonia to New Zealand we were joined by fellow Cruising Yacht Club of Tasmania members/former officers Andrew Boon and Ian Turnbull. Andrew and Ian arrived at Ile des Pins on 11 October, so they were able to make a big contribution to our happy passage, not least helping us get ADAGIO ready to sail again.

For three weeks our passage weather challenge has been the forecasted headwinds on our track to New Zealand. Usually we like high pressure in the Tasman Sea, provided the HI center moves on along to the east. This is because, as the HI center approaches it brings headwinds to the north half of the passage. Then as the high moves off it brings favorable winds for the beginning of the passage. Very, very roughly, in October before the equinox, it could be a good time to sail out of Newcal when the HI center reaches a position north of NZ North Cape (at a latitude midway between Newcal and NZ). A fast boat like ADAGIO has a chance of keeping pace with a “typical HI” to avoid the headwinds and gales of the next approaching Tasman system.

Our problem has been a series of slow moving and intense Tasman Sea high pressure systems. As we watched eagerly for a high to move off we would see the models predicting a replacement high emerging off the Australian coast around 32S. The models were right. The result was the Tasman Sea high pressure was being continuously refurbished and was not moving east as we wished. In early October we also had the challenge of forecasted southeasterly (i.e., headwind) gales developing in the 30-34S zone approaching NZ. Both factors kept coloring the weather outlook “unfavorable” for our NZ passage.

Finally, on October 30th our routing discussions with Rick Shema indicate coming relief from the headwinds. We decide to sail on the 31st, expecting about a day of headwinds turning more westerly and beamy. We just hope the winds do not also go too light on us if the angles deepen as predicted. The good news is the Tasman looks like it will fill with high pressure – so if the winds do go light on us we are unlikely to encounter on-the-nose gales approaching North Cape. When highs are moving smartly across the Tasman that is a very possible development — the first 2/3 of the passage has favorable winds, then the next high system kicks up southerly quadrant headwinds in the NZ “approach zone”.

Before heading out of Noumea, given the lightish wind outlook, we loaded 1,100 litres of diesel to make darn sure we have enough fuel to motor or motorsail through any light winds.

The first part of the passage is going to be a beat, sailing as high as we can stand, as we want to preserve decent downwind angles in the second half of the passage. If we slide off too far to the west, then we are likely to be sailing dead-downwind in less than 10kn.

Andrew and Ian overcame their seasickness the first couple of days with sheer determination. By the morning of 2 November the wind is down in the low teens, and the seas are down from 3 meters to 2 meters, so life aboard is more comfortable. Soon we will be fishing, enjoying moonlight silver seas, spotting the Wandering Albatross and meteorites burning up and a bit of playing with the dolphins.

By 4 November Ian is feeling eager to go to the top of the mast to investigate a rythmic squeak — diagnosed as the reacher halyard sheave (a bumpy trip in that seaway but fortunately no major bruises). Earlier on the 4th Ian had logged “All quite on the floating restaurant. Can recomend the banana cake.”

This will be a rare-for-ADAGIO full moon passage. The official full moon will be about the half-way point on 3 November. So long as the skies are clear we should have some glorious night watches!

October 31, 2009: After enjoying Ilot Maitre we had a reasonable weather outlook for the passage to New Zealand. We hoisted the mainsail at 0737 and began beating towards Amedee Light, which marks the primary reef pass into New Caledonia’s western lagoon.

Following are excerpts from the ADAGIO log.

0737 Depart for New Zealand. We hoisted our mainsail while still attached to the mooring buoy. Andrew, Ian and Steve pushed two of the three lower battens further into the sail to get rid of the wrinkles. Worked like a charm.

0930 Tacking to Amedee Light , Passe de Boulari. Sailing freeish at apparent wind angle (AWA) 42 tacking through bit less than 90 deg.

1049 DAY 1: Passage New Caledonia to New Zealand: Clear of Passe de Boulari (south) now off soundings. Impressive reef breaks both sides, especially to port.

1110 Wind has backed a LOT. We’re steering to apparent wind angle (AWA) 45 in 19kn true wind. Now bashing into head seas to Ricks AP1. First reef in main plus jib.

1147 Wind has eased slightly and veered 20 deg. Small squall ahead might be responsible for this. Seas over the windows which are wonderfully clear due to Rain-X treatment by crew. We saw a lone gannet circling the boat. We can see a catamaran ahead to leeward. Tried hailing MIND THE GAP, but no answer. The boat is bucking like a bronco. Ian freed the std jib tweaker line that was jammed under the machinery space hatch, at the hinge.

1245 After we passed through the small squall with a little rain, our true wind speed (TWS) picked up and veered more. Seas up the front windows and some down the steps into the cockpit. This might be the best wind we have the entire passage. It would be more cofortable if the seas would go down, as forecast for tomorrow.

1310 The sloop BRETON hailed us as we passed under them. Also enroute OPUA (French accent, good English). BRETON is 35-40ft sailing 5-10 deg higher than Adagio, but at least a knot slower. NOTE: we never saw or heard of BRETON in New Zealand. They may have been turned back by the bashing.

1443 Seas continue to build, ride is getting noticeably rougher. It’s tempting to crack off 5 or 10 degrees, which we will do if it gets much rougher. Our average course over ground (COG) for the past 2 hours is 188 deg. as header (veering) tendency seems to have stabilized around 120 deg magnetic.

1754 I came up 10 deg as the seas have eased a bit, and the course was going too far west. Ian trimmed the sails. This got us back on course. The sun is setting.

2104 Requesting new GFS model for 4 days, just for the immediate area. Seas still rough, but down a bit (to 2.5?) from 1600 hours.

2138 No ship targets on AIS nor radar targets within a range of 36 nm.

2245 Wind has backed a lot – around to 87 deg. Wind speed trend is down.

November 1, 2009

0040 DAY 2

0103 The moon is almost full. Lovely. We have been experiencing some big wave washes, and underwing slams earlier in the day. Calmer tonight.

0206 Wind is back up a bit as is boat speed.

0646 Around 0300 wind rose to 23 true wind speed (TWS) to 28 apparent wind speed (AWS) –> sea state built up until we were ocean walloping again. So we cracked off 10 deg to reduce banging.

0911 Speed over ground (SOG) is frequently 10 kts or more, but mostly around 9-9.5 kts. Seas are still up, and a beautiful dark blue. Sky looks like a Dutch sky, all types of clouds. We need to keep a close watch on the wet towels under the leaking front window portlight behind the Azimuth compass. Andrew said that water came down onto the nav station table top near the engine keys. He has been wringing out the white towel that is catching the drip. I added a couple more towels.

0930 193 nm from 0930 to 0930 (first day). I closed the back door because salt spray was coming in. Water was washing down the backs of the cockpit seats next to the winches, and out the scuppers to the floor of the cockpit. Water cascades down the cockpit stairs. SOG hits 11 kts from time to time. Occasional Very Big underwing slams.

1049 195 nm from 1049 to 1049 second day. Had to estimate log at 1049 from last entry at 0911.

1538 Set full main, retrimmed for best close hauled velocity made good (VMG). Got new wx model and did new optimal routings — We want to sail high and fast then tack on stbd when we are headed about 1102 afternoon.

1651 8kn SOG after full main wind increased to 14 kn range – thought it was just a cloud overhead but the lift and windspeed have persisted.

1731 TWS increases and decreases. More squalls ahead, so we might pick up some speed again soon. I put away our New Caledonia and Pacific islands charts, and got out our New Zealand charts. The nearly full moon is off to port, white against a powder blue sky.

November 2, 2009

0047 DAY 3 All quiet

0121 Beautiful moon-lit night. Baro is up again. Seas have decreased with the decreasing wind speed. 650 nm to the Bay of Islands

0501 Pilot 2 back to ECON. Wind down to TWS 10, seas down to mostly swell.

0602 Motorsailing on port engine at 2200 rpms.

0850 3 birds flew past. Rain cells about 9 nm.

1011 A gentler motion over the seas this morning, in bright sunshine. Ian and Andrew are setting up our fishing line. Yesterday a fish took the hooks. ETA Opua 5 Nov 2135 hrs.

1200 I tested sail only with no engine, trimmed main+jib to 40 deg – only managed about 4 ot 5kn or 50% of polar.

1248 Tacked onto STBD, furled jib. Strapped main in for about AWA 25 => pilot on AWA 26. Switch to STBD engine 2400 rpms to balance helm.

1652 Motoring. Seas going down.

1816 Sunset. No green flash, but very orange sky. Rick’s latest email message says to expect no wind for the remainder of the voyage. There are swells from the ESE.

2107 Stunning full moon to port about 45° altitude.

Adagio echart enroute NZ from Newcal

November 3, 2009

0059 DAY 4

0121 Change in TWD. We are into the westerlies. A silver night with moonlight shining on the clouds and water. 474 nm to North Cape, NZ.

0241 Occasional showers; gentle swells. Yesterday Andrew spotted several seabirds, and then we saw what might have been an albatross — very long wings and soaring above the wave tops.

0517 Wind up to 15 kn over the past 3 hours. Set reacher only.

0627 Trim reacher fro AWA 90 deg.

0655 Try steering to AWA 95 deg – seems to pay off adding 0.5 to 1kn in boat speed.

1148 Wind has veered again –>> about 5 to 6 deg off course. Will retrim for deeper angle.

1155 Retrimmed to AWA 110 as wind veers.

1429 Now through the squall line, wind dropped from 18 kn to 8 kn, backed 50 deg – so far. Furled reacher, tried jib, but had to steer 10 -15deg low of course. Probably made a little VMG as jib added about .5 to .9kn

1648 No more rain, quietly motoring.

1716 8.3kn boat speed. We unfurled the reacher and turned off the engine, then headed off 10 deg to port. Nice speed, and quiet. Beautiful clouds in a blue sky. An albatross just flew past our port side.

1810 Switched pilot to AWA 65 deg – seem to have about .7 to 1.0 kn foul current. Data trend indicates veering continues + increasing TWS.

1850 While Andrew on HF radio, we experienced another pilot glitch while steering to wind angle.

2033 Squeak at masthead. Stopped by unloading reacher by steering off.

2127 Just saw meteor burning out at about 1 o’clock or bearing 100 deg magnetic.

2241 Wind down to 6 kts speed down to 3 kts. Furled reacher.

November 4, 2009

0049 DAY 5 All quiet. No fish, no meteorites.

0108 Full moon off our port quarter — big and beautiful. Seas are down. Sky clouding up ahead. Easy going on this beautiful night, motoring along towards NZ . 319 nm to North Cape.

0405 All quite on the floating restaurant. Can recomend the banana cake.

0638 Changed pilot to 113 as currents change.

0851 Several albatross seen

0945 266 nm to North Cape, NZ. Light winds and swell just forward of our starboard beam. Blue sky with a mix of clouds. A quiet morning. Ian and Andrew are setting out several fishing lines, determined to catch something. Andrew was listining to Australian radio when I came on watch. He has prepared a list of frequencies for us to refer to. Higher frrequencies best in the morning. Lower frequencies at night. Last night Adrew tuned into Tas Coast Radio, and he gave our position report, and spoke to John Cerruty on ARIEL who are CYCT members. They are currently in Pittwater, having sailed from SE Asia, and are on theri way home to Hobart.

1045 Set reacher at AWA 60 deg. Halyard squeaks are back, of course.

1117 Ian going up the mast to inspect the reacher halyard and take photos.

1355 Furl reacher; back to port engine

1652 All quiet, no fish but a beautiful afternoon.

1841 Got a fish on port Shimano but lost it when drag increased.

1941 Current is setting our course to stbd.

November 5, 2009

0047 DAY 6 All quiet. Wind indicator doing 360s. Radio Australia on HF M Ch 59-79 incl.

0507 Wind has veered to dead downwind (DDW) , at 10 kts; now useless.

0854 Motor off, reacher and jib set. Our friends aboard Mind The Gap are 15 M astern, Southern Sky 30 M E.

0959 Getting ready to swap reacher for chute, spinnaker.

1041 Crew voted to keep with the reacher and jib. We gybed both, and are wing on wing with reacher on stb gybe. ETA for BOI is tomorrow 6 Nov., 1100 hours.

1226 Wind veered so furled jib and left reacher alone. Mind the gap 11 miles behind with full main and spinnaker doing 6.9kts in just 11 kts breeze.

1316 Set jib + reacher.

1700 Peaceful afternoon. Jib and reacher. Put VMC voice weather frequencies into Kenwood HF radio, ch 84-89.

1735 We were sailing about 5deg high of course – but after adjusting AWA too deep – try 111.

2105 35 nm from North Cape

November 6, 2009

0110 DAY 7: Wind refuses to back! Jib and reacher, dead down wind.

0125 Rain showers came up from astern. Misty. No need to rinse the salt off the sails when we are in port.

0154 The wind is backing steadily, allowing us to clear North Cape by 1-1/2 to 2 nm.

0226 I furled the jib and trimmed in the reacher, altering course to Taheke Roc waypoint. North Cape is 1 nm abeam to starboard. Wind continues to back.

0255 Wind backed suddenly about 90 degrees as we rounded North Cape. Furled the reacher and set the jib.

0316 Port engine at 1600 rpms. Needed to run the genset anyway. Need to hoist the main but will wait for Steve’s watch.

0517 After clearing North Cape the wind snapped down to SW 190 deg magnetic. We set main 2nd reef + jib steering AWA 50 deg. Ian and Andrew landed a nice Wahoo fish, and Ian filleted it. We ate all of it before making landfall.

0528 Cracked off to AWA 58 to lay Cavalli Islands on course of 128T – ride is much better now with main at 2nd reef

0827 Ship (bulk carrier?) at 4.4nm 74mg on AIS and radar.

0906 Main to full hoist.

1346 Cavalli Islands to starboard

1414 Turn for Ninepin – caught another barracuda but it got off taking the skirted lure Andrew bought for us

1613 Ninepin – furl the main

0752 DAY 7: Landfall New Zealand. We arrived at Opua Marina at 1800 hrs on Friday 6 Nov, just at the Twilight race was starting. The race boats sailed past going out as we were coming into the harbor. Great photos. The 18 ft skiff was leading. Customs and Immigration had closed. We were the only boat on the Customs Dock, but by morning there were 8 others. On Saturday morning we were processed with no dramas, and moved to an end tie on E dock. David Radtke came to wave hello on Friday, and deliver our mail to the marina office. Steve visited Alan and Pauline Legge while Dorothy shopped for food in Paihia with Lorna from Mind the Gap. We invited David and Susan aboard for dinner on Sunday night.

2022 We anchored in Waipiro Bay, just off the port quarter of MAGIC DRAGON. Jane and Shelly came aboard ADAGIO for coffee and bickies, then at 1800 hours we went aboard MAGIC DRAGON for champagne and nibbles. We caught up on a lot of news and stories.

Ile des Pins: Walk from Vao to Kanumera Bay

Andrew, Ian and Dorothy grabbed a lift to the farmers market in Vao from our friend Cleo. We shopped for produce, toured the town of Vao, then walked back to Kuto Bay. Along the way we saw a lot of local color. Walking through the forest of Bugny trees along the shores of Kanumera Bay was a hilight.

The Visitors’ Center in Vao displays a photo gallery on their walls showing elders of the town, recent acitivities and events and arts and crafts made by the locals. The church was furnished with hand carved wooden religious objects. The seat of government is called the Mairie. From the road we watched farmers preparing their fields for the traditional planting of yams. Enormous columnaris pines graced our way, and Kanumera Bay cooled our feet. Back aboard ADAGIO, the guys helped Steve repair the broken turning block.

Ile des Pins: Kuto Bay

October 6th: Our friends James and Lorna aboard MIND THE GAP were anchored nearby in Kuto Bay. The weather was beautiful and we were happy to be back in our favorite area of New Caledonia.

We had our friends Cleo, Albert and Tony aboard for dinner. Albert told us the story of how he and Tony had obtained permission in Paris from a high official to establish the first commercial dive center in New Caledonia, in the Isle of Pines. Cleo brought me a poem she had written about the Kagu bird.

The next morning, large schools of 6 inch long fish were feeding on the surface, creating flashing, silver swirls.